Ma.gazin.es

Photography has become massively popular over the last fifteen years, partly because of the integration of digital camera technology into mobile phones, and partly because of internet social networking sites such as Facebook and MySpace. Although it is great being able to upload photos within minutes of taking them and sharing them with our friends and family immediately, sometimes we all would like to have a hard copy of particular photos to reflect on occasionally and to display in our homes.

With the digital age upon us, we no longer require negative images with which to develop our photographs. All we have to do now is to transfer our digital photos to an internet site, choose the style of printing we would like and order our prints. Though we are no longer limited to photographic paper, we can now have our photos developed onto other materials. Some great alternative photo printing ideas are detailed below.

One of the easiest and cheapest alternative ways to print your photos is to have them enlarged. Although it is great having standard 4” x 6” sized photos which you can store in an album and flick through quite easily, it would also be fun to have a massive poster size copy to hang on your bedroom wall as well. Many of the larger photo printing companies now offer a variety of sizes with which you can order prints for, some even offer the ability to print onto custom sized paper though there is a limit to the size you can go to without moving into commercial printing territory.

If you have some particularly special family portraits and you want to display them in your home in the best possibly way, have you thought of acrylic prints? Acrylic printing is the process of printing a photo onto high quality photo paper and then securing it with acrylic glass to protect it and to give it more depth and vibrance.

One of the more modern ways you can have your photos printed is by choosing them to be printed onto aluminum sheets. Technically the photos are printed onto photo paper and then mounted onto aluminum sheets using special contact adhesive, though the outcome is incredible and the aluminum backing means that the prints are lightweight, strong and durable.

Probably one of the best materials you can use to have your photos printed onto is canvass. Although not many companies are able to offer this service, the results are truly amazing, giving great depth and quality to images and really making a difference from standard photo paper. You can also have the canvass print framed for extra appeal.

Read On : Acrylic Prints

Selling Your Photography to Magazines | By TJ Tierney

The magazine market is by far the biggest market for the freelance photographer, with millions of pictures published each month. If you would like to see some profit from your pictures, its really important to make the right approach.

Taking pictures for the magazine market isn’t about taking nice shots that your friends will admire or that will look nice on your wall at home. It’s about taking images that will sell to a selective audience, and to accomplish this you must understand the market.

Assuming that your photography ability is to par – there is no reason that you can’t start sending your images to photo editors straight away. Start off by selecting the markets that you may have interest in. Pick a market that you like to photograph.

Go to your nearest magazine outlet and buy 3 or 4 magazines that you are interested in submitting to.

Study each image that has been used by the photo editor and then compare the images in the magazine to your own.

This is were honesty comes in.

If your images are every bit as good as the images in the magazine, feel free to submit them. Write or send an e-mail to the photo editor telling them about your work. If you have a website, add it to the e-mail so that the editor can view a sample of your work. If you do send your images by post make sure you include a stamped addressed envelope to get your images back.

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Magazines have standard prices for photographs and will pay you after the magazine has gone to print. This differs from magazine to magazine; magazines that sell more normally pay more for their images – the cover picture is normally the best paid, with the double centre being the second.

If you sell an image to a magazine don’t submit it straight away to a different magazine – the chances are that they’ll find out and won’t use your images again.

It doesn’t hurt to know the law when selling your images to magazines. The minute you hit the shutter button you own the copyright. As standard practice magazines normally pay you for the right to use your image once. If they use the same image in five months time, they must pay you a second time.

If your images aren’t as good as the images that are used in the magazine don’t submit them. You will be wasting your own time and the time of the photo editor. Photo editors are very busy and get hundreds of submissions every month. Try to improve your photography and submit at a later date.

Photo editors are always looking for new material, but first study the market.

It’s a fantastic feeling to see your images published for the first time.

TJ Tierney is an award winning photographer and a freelance writer. To find out more information visit his photography site and his photography forum.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=TJ_Tierney
http://EzineArticles.com/?Selling-Your-Photography-to-Magazines&id=229616

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Choosing Lenses For Wedding Photography | By Jeff Walden

Wedding photography has gained popularity over the years due to the increased pressure on bride and grooms to host the perfect wedding. Wedding photography depends on perfect timing and having equipment that matches the needs of the couple.

However, once you have gained enough experience in the field, you should start thinking about getting the best and latest equipment for wedding photography. If you start to carry out research and speak to different wedding photographers, you will realize that different individual prefer different brands and consequently, different lenses- depending on their style and mode of working.

It goes without saying that if you want to excel in the field of wedding photography, it is essential that you purchase a good portrait lens. Portrait photography depends on the distance between the camera and the subject as well as the lens’ focal length. It is of common knowledge that if you take a close up of the subject with the help of a lens with a wide angle, the subject will practically protrude out of the photograph and its surroundings will look miniature. Therefore, if you want to achieve this kind of an effect, it is recommended that you use a wide angle lens and shoot from a short distance. This concept is called foreshortening and is very popular among wedding photographers.

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However, in case the bride or the groom do not like close up and therefore, do not wish to see minute details of their faces- you cannot use these lenses. Therefore, it becomes necessary to involve the couple into your plans so that both the parties are happy in the end. You should explain how positioning the camera in a certain manner will add different angles to the photograph and make it look completely different.

A study was carried out recently which compared photographs taken from different focal lengths. The verdict was that portraits with wide angle lenses added a softer character to the photographs whereas photographs that were taken from a distance gave the subject a harder look.

While selecting the lens for wedding photography, you must first figure out whether you are on a budget or if you are willing to splurge on the best, that is, more than $1000 on a Canon lens. Even though these lenses are extremely popular, if you are on a budget, other lenses are made by Canon which are not as expensive. While choosing a lens for wedding photography, it is also important to figure out whether you will be using more than a single camera on the main day. Instead of wasting time changing lenses, a majority of wedding photographers carry two cameras.

A number of wedding photographers also rely on fixed lens solutions. These have gained popularity over the years because the quality of the photographs is enhanced and there is no need for the photographer to add color to them with the help of editing systems like Photoshop. However, fixed lens solutions lead to other limitations and therefore, hamper the photographer’s personal style. For those interested in these lenses, the 24mm F1.4 L, 85mm F1.2 L, and the 135 mm F2.0 L and the 50mm F1.2 L are recommended. However, one can also combine these for best results. Fixed lens solutions are generally popular amongst wedding photographers who have gained enough experience to develop a unique style.

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Landscape Photography – Maximizing Depth of Field and Sharpness | By Brian T Davidson

Maximizing depth of field and sharpness when you’re shooting landscapes is not the black art that many people seem to think. There is a lot of confusion, misleading information and incorrect assumptions being made on the Internet when it comes to f-stops and focusing distance.

Common Mistakes

One common and misleading assumption is that to get maximum depth of field you simply choose an aperture of f16 or above and focus about one third of the way into the scene. This method may work to a degree, but you are not getting the maximum depth of field or maximum sharpness from your lens, particularly if you are using an ultra wide lens in the 10 to 24mm range.

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Maximizing Depth of Field

If you look at any depth of field table, which incidentally are freely available on the Internet, you will notice that the depth of field increases as focal length shortens, which means that a lens with a focal length of 50mm will have less depth of field than a lens with a focal length of 17mm at the same f-stop. I highly recommend you to check your own focal length against these tables to get the approximate hyperfocal distance for your lens.

For wide and ultra wide lenses you will want to set your focus point to roughly four feet into the scene, as this is approximately where the hyperfocal distance will be for these type of lenses. This will mean that everything from about two feet in front of the subject to everything behind the subject will be in sharp focus. Remember, as you increase the focus distance you actually decrease the amount of sharpness in front of the subject.

Maximizing Sharpness

If you want to maximize sharpness, especially if you are planning on doing large prints then you need to ensure that you are using appropriate apertures. A common misconception is that setting the aperture to f22 will make everything sharp. Not true! All lenses, even the most expensive pro models suffer from diffraction. It has nothing to do with build quality but rather the law of physics! Diffracted light is light that is reflected off the edge of the aperture blades. At large apertures it is not a problem but at small apertures the amount of diffracted light increases to the point of affecting image sharpness quite noticeably. Therefore I would not recommend using anything beyond f16.

If you are doing very large prints at A2 and above then I would not recommend using even f16 but instead using f11. Obviously if you do use f11 you will not get the same range of depth of field as you would with f16 but what you can do in this instance is take two exposures. Take one exposure at the hyperfocal distance then take another at infinity. This will ensure you have maximum sharpness across the two. You can then blend them both together in Photoshop for a super sharp image.

Brian Davidson – landscape, macro and still life photographer

Stock Images and Fine Art Photography http://chasethelight.co.uk
Blog – http://photography-ctl.blogspot.com/
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Black and White Photography | By Daniel Sach

Black and White photography, it draws one’s self into the detail of an image rather than the vibrant color which is absent from their eye. A color photograph draws one to a specific color. A black and white photo can draw one’s self into the depth in which it captures. Depending on the style, a photo may encompass a shadow as the main subject or rather the lack thereof. Black and white develops into a pursuit of detail and majesty. I would like to share some tips on shooting the best possible black and white photos as possible.
I will refer to Black and White as B&W.

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Tip #1 Shoot in RAW
It is obvious that most people are unaware of the now loved RAW setting on their cameras. All things considered I am aware that not everyone has a camera capable of shooting in this mode. Shooting in Raw offers more control not only in the post processing period but also when converting the picture to B&W. If your camera does support RAW, Use it! The normal JPEG format will work, though in the end RAW will produce a far superior photo. Once you become familiar with RAW you will never go back.

Tip #2 Do Not Use the Built in B&W setting.

Most people, when wanting to shoot B&W, flick their camera to this setting. Even though you are able to produce a black and white photo with no need of post processing, you lose the overall quality and control of the final outcome. If you do not have a RAW setting, shoot in color mode.

Tip #3 The Lower the ISO the better.

Turn your ISO down to the lowest possible setting. Most photographers understand the difference between 100 and 800 ISO. If not please stop and read my article “I don’t know my ISO”. This is an important step. B&W will show the grain and while sometimes a grainy B&W can be very stylish, it is not always wanted. B&W create more noise and grain. Turning down your ISO will make it less noticeable.

TIP # 4 Do not shoot when you would normally shoot a color photo.

LIGHTING ! LIGHTING ! LIGHTING !
A good photo is all about the lighting. Most of the time, a typical person would shoot a photo on a sunny day with a lot of light. B&W is opposite. For me, I choose to shoot when it is overcast creating a softer lighting effect. The best days to take B&W are the worst days to shoot color.

Tip# 5 it is all about the detail

When shooting B&W, one needs to understand that the goal is not to produce sharp bright colors but rather to capture intricate detail and ominous shadows. It is good to try different techniques and setups. Try shooting a scene at different times of day. A bridge that may seem plain and dull during sunrise may be a wondrous spectacle of lighting and shadows during sunset. Different lighting and shadows create different effects. A good way to practice is to pick an object outside and shoot it 4 times a day to find out what the best lighting is. Sunrise, early morning, late afternoon and sunset are a good starting point. Another element to and intrigue to your photo is shooting in different weather. A layer of fog can turn even the dullest of photos into a masterpiece of success.

Tip #6 Keep your focus on your subject

A common error in any form of photography is not drawing you viewer’s eyes to what you had intended to. An all too common issue is when shooting a photo of an object is when there is another object in the background which causes the viewer to drift away from the subject being photographed. If the subject being photographed is movable, try moving it for proper framing. If the subject is not movable the moving your setup would be the next step. The idea behind capturing an image is to capture what you envision and what y0u want the viewer to see.

Another key difference when shooting B&W is that you use detail, shadows, and focus to draw the viewer’s attention to the desired object rather than different color. Things to look at when shooting your photo are the different shapes, tones and textures. Be sure again to use the shadows and lighting available to create the desired image. Highlights may also be used as another source of framework for you image.

Tip# 7 Final thoughts to remember……
Be sure to be more thorough when choosing your subject matter to photograph. Objects which may look great in color will not necessarily look the best in B&W and may turn out dull or flat with no depth. One aspect of B&W is the ability to create and unexpected or dramatic portrait in that removing the color places the focus on the detail, lighting and shadows. When shooting B&W; remember that it is about the detail, not the colors

Daniel Sach

http://www.Sachphotography.us
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http://EzineArticles.com/?Black-and-White-Photography&id=2470393

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Landscape Photography – After Light It’s All About Composition in Landscape Photography | By Jamie Paterson

You’ve heard time and time again that landscape photography is all about the natural light that nature provides to you at the time of taking the photograph. This is extremely true, but even if the light is perfect your photo won’t stand out unless you composed it in the best way that you can.

Okay, so what constitutes great composition is always going to be extremely subjective and there are no 100% right or wrong answer and yes sometime you have to go against the norm to tell your story. However, there are four major things that I look for when I’m taking a photo.

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The first thing I always try to follow is the rule of thirds, do a Google search to find out more but essentially try to avoid having your horizons going straight through the middle of your photos and definitely try to avoid putting your subjects in the centre of your photo. If you’re taking a photo of a really impressive rock then don’t put it bang in the centre of your photo. Perhaps you could take a photo with ¾ sky and the rock placed on the right hand or left hand side it would make for a different and interesting landscape photograph. Always try to think outside of the box.

If I’m taking a landscape photograph of something like a mountain range that is a little distance away I always ensure that I include something that qualifies as foreground interest. Here’s an example, I want to take a photo of a hill that is perhaps 500M away, no just taking a photo of that hill would look pretty boring. If I managed to include a nice rock or tree in the foreground then that adds depth to the photograph and makes it significantly more interesting.

Using the same scenario as above another composition trick is to add leading lines into your photo to literally ‘lead’ people’s eyes towards the main subject in your photograph. So how could we include this in the above photo? Well we’ve found our hill and we’ve found our tree, is there a fence for example leading up to the direction of the hill (this in itself is also foreground interest), is there a creek running down from the hill as this could be used as a leading line as well. Leading lines work really well if you get them right.

One of the last composition techniques when taking landscape photographs I employ is called framing. What do you think might be more interesting? Taking a photo standing on a beach or standing back in the tree line with a shot of a branch at the top of my photo ‘framing’ my photo? Again do a search on Google images from examples of this.

So using a combination of great light, the rule of thirds, foreground interest, leading lines and framing you’ll be able to produce some stunning landscape photographs. If you have a look at some of my work you’ll see where I have tried to use at least one of these techniques in each photo.

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http://EzineArticles.com/?Landscape-Photography—After-Light-Its-All-About-Composition-in-Landscape-Photography&id=2462379

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